For many thousands of years Setenil de las Bodegas has been occupied, possibly for as long as people have been using the Cueva de Pileta, though it wasn´t until the age of the Phoenicians and then Romans that the village was first mentioned in texts.
Hotel El Almendral in Setenil de las Bodegas
Always eclipsed by nearby Acinipo, Setenil was, at first, a warehouse for storing goods that were traded with other parts of Iberia or the rest of the Empire. It was during this time that archaeologists believe the caves were first closed off with brick walls to prevent thieves from stealing goods produced in the area.
After the fall of Acinipo (and the Roman Empire) in 495AD, Setenil´s fortunes changed as the village was forced to convert the warehouses into homes.
Reserve a hotel in Setenil del las Bodegas here…
For many hundreds of years Setenil was a quiet, almost ignored village. A mosque was built after the Islamic invasion of Iberia in 711AD, and it wasn´t until the 1200s when Christian advances had taken Cordoba and Sevilla that Setenil finally became an important frontier post.
So critical was its position that 7 separate attempts were made to capture the town, however the castle was built to be impregnable. It stands at the highest point of the village and one of the two towers remains along with the well.
Next to the ruined castle stands the largest church in the village, Our Lady of the Incarnation, built in the last years of the 16th century and completed around 20 years later. It includes a gothic vaulted ceiling and ribbed vaults.
Within the church there is a chasuble, a vestment worn during Mass which was presented to the people of Setenil by the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella to commemorate the first Mass in the village after it fell to their armies.
The rest of the castle was demolished by cannon on the 21st September 1484, a momentous occasion in the Christian reconquest of Andalucia, which directly led to the fall of Ronda one year later, and then Granada in 1492.
Also not to be missed in Setenil, and of course the main reason people visit, are the homes, shops, and bars that occupy the caves. Unlike other cave villages, most of Setenil has not been enlarged, the caves have simply been closed in.
Visitors often wonder how safe the people of Setenil feel living under the rock. But, villagers will tell you the village has existed for many years so it must be safe! (Though the truth is they prefer not to think about it.) :)
Reserve a hotel in Setenil del las Bodegas here…
FAQ: Exploring Setenil de las Bodegas – A Unique White‑village in Cádiz
This picturesque town stands out for its houses built directly into the rock overhangs above the Río Trejo, creating two dramatic streets—“Cuevas del Sol” and “Cuevas de la Sombra”—where the rock acts as a natural roof
Literally meaning “seven times nothing,” the name refers to the town’s legendary resistance during the Reconquista—it reportedly stood firm through seven sieges before falling in 1484, hence “septem nihil” in Latin.
Archaeological finds indicate human activity in the area dating back over 5,000 years. While medieval and Moorish structures dominate, evidence suggests it was continuously inhabited since prehistoric times.
Although near Ronda, Setenil was historically under Málaga’s jurisdiction. It became independent in 1630 and was officially integrated into the province of Cádiz in 1833 following administrative reorganisation.
Highlights include the 12th–14th-century rock-overhang homes, the 15th-century Castillo de Setenil with its intact tower, the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, and several medieval ermita chapels.
“Cuevas del Sol” is bathed in sunlight and lined with vibrant bars and terraces, while “Cuevas de la Sombra” remains shaded under rock, offering cooler, atmospheric passage where the cliff forms a natural ceiling.
Setenil is celebrated for its olive oil, artisanal chacinas (cured meats), and regional recipes like migas serranas, gazpachuelo, sweet batatas with honey, and the local “masita” tapas—perfectly savoured in cave-like restaurants.
Yes—declared a historic-artistic site in 1985, Setenil is recognised as one of “Los Pueblos Blancos de Cádiz” (White Villages) and was named Spain’s most-searched rural tourism destination in 2018.
The town serves as a gateway to local trails, including the Ruta de los Bandoleros to Acinipo’s Roman ruins and the Ruta de los Molinos passing old flour mills—ideal for hikers exploring the Sierra de Cádiz
Its fusion of whitewashed façades, natural cave ceilings, and dramatic river gorge setting make Setenil a visually extraordinary destination, lauded by travel outlets and photographers for its unmistakable charm.
I’ve been living in this lovely area of Western Andalucia for the last 20 years or so and dedicate most of my time to the running of English language tourist information websites for the towns of Cádiz, Ronda, Grazalema, the famous or infamous Caminito del Rey, and also Wildside Holidays, which promotes sustainable and eco-friendly businesses running wildlife and walking holidays in Spain. My articles contain affiliate links that will help you reserve a hotel, bus, train or activity in the area. You don’t pay more, but by using them you do support this website. Thankyou!